Lately I have been doing a lot of trough-hole electronics soldering with lead based solder wire (non lead solder wire has been available for a while now but it is a lot harder to control and do a good job with when compared to lead based).
Since lead flux fumes are bad for you (prolonged exposure can lead to significant respiratory problems) I decided to build a simple 3D printed fume extractor.
3D printer bottom and top case files are here: http://milanvrekic.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Solder_Fume_Extractor.zip . If you do not have a 3D printer, you can get the STL files printed cheaply at 3Dhubs.com.
Bill of Materials:
120mm 12V fan (for example this one on Amazon)
Activated Carbon Filter (10 bucks or so on Amazon, for example this one)
8 10mm screws (if you do not have any lying around, you can also find them on amazon)
3D printed cover mesh (link to STL design files above)
3D printed base stand.
12V wall-wart adapter (if you cannot salvage one, you can also get one on amazon)
Step 1: Mount the cover mesh and the base on the fan, using the 10mm screws.
Step 2: Cut the carbon filter to size and place in the plastic base. Scissors are the most effective way to cut the filter.
Filter mounted in the base.
Step 3: Cut the connector end off the fan. In case you are wondering, yellow wire is for fan speed control.
Step 4: I found an old plastic case to use for this project. I wanted a case big enough to hold a battery as well as DC jack connector and a switch. In a pinch, you can use an old cassette tape case. This step is optional. You can always just solder the fan wires directly to a 12V wall wart transformer and the project is done for you. Albeit, not as practical.
I starred by drilling two holes in the upper corner and then using a needle file to file it to shape.
I also made the case more aesthetically pleasing by painting it.
Step 5: Connect the DC jack to the switch and the fan (red and back wires from the fan). Black on the inside terminal and red on the outside terminal.
I used a hot glue gun to additionally secure the components in the case.
Ready to go. I added a 15mm screw in the middle to close the case.